soot in case neck - need it or not ?

@T @treeman 3 years ago

So I buy a batch of brass and get my old reload data out. 54 gr S365 batch XYZ 1
Still have a load of that batch and so its straight to reloading the cases after priming. Should I full length case ? Naaa ! Just measure the charge, seat the bullet and do a few test shots for grouping.

Usually, nothing has changed, two touching holes and one 3 mm off to one side. Yip thats my group. Put the other 2 test rounds through target (loaded them just in case I pulled a round or such). We now have a big hole with one bullet not playing along and making its own hole a mm or two to one side.

I go home and load up the next 95 cases after putting the shot case in a newly marked bag - shot x 1 batch 01/27/ 23.
These reloads meet my hunting needs including headshots out to 100 -125 m

Later on I read about having to resize the bought cases before loading them, now I am worried.

Some time later after having been hunting 60-70 cases through the batch I hear I should have shot these cases once to foul them up abit before I would get any accuracy, my year is ruined.

Blerry carbon! Must have some in neck of the case to release the gilding metal bullet from the bushing material case before it will fly accurately down that dry barrel.

I am now confused and start pulling kak shots because I now know to much.

Shoulda read less shot more.

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@O @oafpatroll

People like you used to get burned at the stake for less.

[deleted]

The only thing I would worry about is chemical welding (correct term?). It happens when a chemical reaction occurs between the bullet and the case, apparently because of oil, or soap, containing a substance which fuses the bullet and case together.

I once broke a kinetic hammer on a .222 cartridge due to this occurrence.

@O @oafpatroll

I took apart some old 303 rounds once and the bullets/cases had definitely glued up properly over time. There was visible corrosion and clear shear lines where it had broken free. Not sure what vintage it was but I got it from an oom who was in his 90's in the early 1990's and he hadn't shot in decades. Stuff hadn't been stored well either as the boxes were wilted so moisture had been present.

Just realised that I have a small batch of a 'bad' jacketed 270 load that is nearly 6 years old. When I go to the range next I'll chrony 5 for comparison to my original readings and pull a few to see what the bullets look like.

@T @treeman OP

Moisture and acid are ones enemy's in long term reloading situations. Moisture allows promotes many reactions including electrolissis and/or oxidation. Acid in the smallest amount will start either or both of these processes, supposing in my uneducated mind that oxidation is electrolysis with a different result or at least one more noticeable result.

How do bonded bullets get made ? The copper cup is exposed to a very low % acid mix before lead is pressed in, this is why some bonded bullets get a fuzz on the base end some time later in storage. The same low acid comes from fingers when seating bullets and can work between the case and the bullet.
Moisture in the air can activate or speed this up. Tester, if you have a dedicated washing room, take some scrap cases and place them in washing room for a few months, even better if you have a pool room. :o

I once had some 50 year old 220 Swift factory ammo, got it with a rifle from South West Africa side that later moved to Durban, like 60 x 20 round packets. Nearly all when I tested them first by pulling heads came off at the neck with neck welded to bullet. Some bullets came out core only leaving the casing welded in the neck.

@2 @223

Moisture and acid are ones enemy's in long term reloading situations. Moisture allows promotes many reactions including electrolissis and/or oxidation. Acid in the smallest amount will start either or both of these processes, supposing in my uneducated mind that oxidation is electrolysis with a different result or at least one more noticeable result.

How do bonded bullets get made ? The copper cup is exposed to a very low % acid mix before lead is pressed in, this is why some bonded bullets get a fuzz on the base end some time later in storage. The same low acid comes from fingers when seating bullets and can work between the case and the bullet.
Moisture in the air can activate or speed this up. Tester, if you have a dedicated washing room, take some scrap cases and place them in washing room for a few months, even better if you have a pool room. :o

I once had some 50 year old 220 Swift factory ammo, got it with a rifle from South West Africa side that later moved to Durban, like 60 x 20 round packets. Nearly all when I tested them first by pulling heads came off at the neck with neck welded to bullet. Some bullets came out core only leaving the casing welded in the neck.

I suspect you have answered your own question here?